Week 4 Cropped Jacket

So, I went rouge this week. I had decide to go easy on myself, and then completely didn't.  I picked the Simplicity pattern 6099 from 1965.  I chose to just do the jacket on this one. I liked the dress, but the scalloped edge collar was calling my name. I went with a pinstriped navy suiting that I have had in my stash for a while. I got it from Sir's Fabric. This used to be my go to fabric store before it burned down a couple years ago. I'm still not over the loss. I also picked this burgundy crest fabric. This was given to me by a friend that was cleaning out her house. The original pattern was only faced at the neck, and front facing making it a simple and straight forward pattern. I prefer a fully lined jacket, and making my life harder. So I skipped the instructions and just did my own thing. 

 

Pattern, pinstriped outer, and burgundy crest lining

For this pattern I used all the pattern pieces except the neck facings. First I cut out the front and back panels and sleeves from both fabrics. Next, using only the pinstripe and interfacing I cut out the collar, and stitched it making sure to clip the curves so it would lay nicely. I cut out the front facing making sure to add about an inch for a seam allowance. I stitched all the dart lines on both fabrics, and set the pinstriped aside. for the lining I laid the facing pattern over the lining fabric and cut that away. I then pinned the navy facing to the burgundy lining and stitched.

Lining fabric pinned to facing fabric

inside of the finished jacket

Next, I moved on the the sleeves. This was the same basic idea as the lining. I cut the sleeves from both materials. I made the lining about an inch shorter so it will incorporate the navy into the seam line  when the sleeve is turned out. This lets the seam be hidden inside the arm. It just gives the finished garment a cleaner look.

lining pinned at the wrist

sleeve pinned and ready for stitching

view of the outside and inside of the left arm

After the sleeves were done I was ready to assemble the jacket. I sewed together the outer shell, and the lining. I then attached the sleeves to their corresponding fabric. I sandwiched the collar between the lining and outer shell fabrics with the right sides together. Now all I had to do was sew it up. I did this as if i was sewing a lined purse, by leaving an opening in the lining to pull it through. Once it was right side out I hand stitched the opening closed, pressed the jacket, and added a button and button hole instead of the tie closer the original pattern calls for. 

hole in the lining I turned the jacket out through

all said and done

I have to admit that even though my version was a lot more work I love how it turned out. This is a pattern I can see myself using again.  I think it would look so great in a brighter color or floral print. But that's a project for another day.